In recent weeks, San Antonio has been graced by the Jazz’SAlive Festival and the International Latin Jazz & Arts Festival, showcasing some of the best jazz around. But where can San Antonio locals and visitors find amazing jazz every week and why is San Antonio such a hot spot for jazz culture?
The inception of San Antonio’s jazz history is often credited to the late James “Jim” Cullum Jr. and his nightclub, The Landing. Cullum was a jazz historian and leader of the Jim Cullum Jazz Band, which performed nightly at The Landing on the Riverwalk.
The Landing provided a cozy haven for jazz enthusiasts and musicians alike, bringing the heart of jazz to downtown San Antonio. The club provided a platform for artists to grow, find their footing and was often dubbed a part of the “Chitlin Circuit,” a trail of jazz scenes across the country in areas such as New York, New Orleans, Los Angeles and Chicago. Various prestigious artists, such as Ella Fitzgerald, Miles Davis and John Coltrane performed at The Landing in cooperation with Cullum. Beyond the revolutionary club, one of his biggest initiatives was founding the Riverwalk Jazz radio program. This program was hosted and funded by Cullum, promoting the oldest to newest renditions of jazz culture across the radio waves. Through his ventures and mentorship, Cullum fostered a blooming jazz community in San Antonio and gave way to the start of the culture that is present today.
Unfortunately, The Landing and the Riverwalk Jazz program have come to an end. The Landing fell in 2011 to an unfortunate turn of events regarding the ownership of the club which resulted in Cullum suing the owner. The Riverwalk Jazz program ended in 2015 on a happier note as Cullum was nearing the end of his career. “We had a story to tell with ‘Riverwalk Jazz,’ with the remarkable people when the origins [of jazz] were just unfolding, and we wanted to get some of these people down for the record,” Cullum said. He passed away in 2019, in the peace of his own home, leaving behind a profound imprint on San Antonio and jazz culture.
His legacy and the thriving jazz scene that he created continue to live on in San Antonio. Programs such as the aforementioned annual Jazz’SAlive and Trinity University’s KRTU Jazz 9.17 FM continue to bring beautiful jazz tunes to listeners. Many clubs, bars and social spots around town host live jazz weekly, and sometimes daily.
One of the biggest examples of this is the growing jazz club in The Historic Pearl, “Jazz, TX.” Owned by Doc Watkins, a local vocalist and pianist, the venue serves as one of the most high-end and active jazz clubs in San Antonio. Hosting multiple shows a day and new artists every day of the week, the underground club is always filled with smooth sounds. Watkins’s very own band often performs, each time highlighting a new genre of jazz or section of the genre’s history. Attesting to the booming jazz culture of San Antonio, most shows at Jazz, TX are sold out weeks in advance.
When looking for a cheaper jazz outing in our music-filled city, there is no shortage of free performances. KRTU’s Jazz Calendar provides an amazing resource to scout out paid, free and festival jazz performances around San Antonio. One of these staple locations is the Blue Star Brewing Company, which acts as a bar and music venue. While hosting a wide array of musical genres, Blue Star is an amazing location to find routine, cheap and talent-filled big band performances. Ranging from full-on festivals — such as the Blue Star Big Band Jazz Festival happening this Sunday, Oct. 20 — to weekly jazz nights, Blue Star always hosts talented local bands at little to no cost. Alongside the amazing music venue, the bar serves amazing food and renowned local beers, brewed a few steps away while dining.
Continuing a theme of big band jazz, the St. Anthony Hotel hosts the Dirty River Jazz band every Tuesday night. This local, traditional-style jazz band is not only regularly at the St. Anthony Hotel, but also frequents other jazz spots around San Antonio — including Jazz, TX. The band has a rich history which was originally inspired by Jim Cullum’s Jazz Band, boasting a classic 20’s style of music that is brought on by their beginnings as music teachers. They have a unique sound, skillfully covering many of the greatest hits and are often open to any requests. The St. Anthony Hotel is the best place to see them perform for free with the option of free table reservations and high-end food from one of the hotel’s restaurants, Gallery on the Park.
Stepping away from the big band, and into a more free-form “jazz jam” of sorts, is The Dakota East Side Ice House. Following suit of Blue Star, the Dakota gives a stage to a host of artists daily — even those outside the realm of jazz. The smaller venue hosts two weekly jazz events on Thursday nights and Sunday mornings.
Unlike many of the other jazz outings mentioned, the Dakota’s jazz performances are not performances at all. These are simply jam sessions where any musician is welcome to join in, creating a unique experience for the listener and artist alike. Home to a core group of talented individuals, the sessions are often joined by music students, local composers, vocalists and other musicians from guitarists to trombone players.
Similar to Jim Cullum’s notoriety for mentorship, the Dakota provides a smaller atmosphere for new musicians to learn, make mistakes and show off their skills. It is not out of the ordinary for an unknown individual to show up, completely shock the bar with a fiery jazz solo and leave to an astounding round of applause. It is also not uncommon for newcomers to mess up, yet the atmosphere is always forgiving, allowing newer players to find the rhythm again.
These are just a few of the amazing spots around the beautiful city of San Antonio where one can find live jazz. Honorable mentions include Milano On Wurzbach, Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood, Rock and Rye and various hotels around the SA area — all regularly hosting local artists and jazz-centered evenings. Jim Cullum and the deep jazz culture he helped form still burn brightly in San Antonio. In the coming weeks, find time to check out KRTU’s Jazz Calendar to find local jazz events and join the local jazz community.
